March 29, 2007

Trying

Wow.  We finished our chocolate boxes today and are going to sail right into pastillage and sugar showpieces for the last seven days of class.  When I stepped into class this week, I decided to shake my frustrations as best I could so I could stay focused and give my best effort.  Which I did.  I still have trouble spreading chocolate evenly, but the chef stood by and held my hand (literally) and was a huge help when I stayed late one day to do it a few more times.   After all that, the piping began.

As you can see below, the top of our boxes is a set of piped chocolate ornaments that we designed ourselves.  Now, piping is another thing that is tough for me.  But, we piped.  And, piped.  And, piped some more.  Slowly, I started improving.  And, I have to say, it's really pretty thrilling when your hands and eyes just start to get it.  It made me want to pipe more.  Make my lines thinner, more rounded.  But, oh no, then we had to go back and put in some lattice work.  Now, that was really tough.  Those tiny little lines.  In such small little places.  So delicate.  I think I needed another day and another 20 ornaments to practice on.  Mine came out pretty heavy, indeed.   Here is a photo of some of my ornaments without the lattice.  I think you can see some of the lattice in the photo of the final box.

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After all that, then it was time to assemble.  I think I was surprised with my final product.  It was better than I thought; however, the perfectionist in me had to take many deep breaths.  Why?  Because, I knew if I started the whole thing over after all of that practice, it would come out more accurate.  And, I could play with the design more.  I knew this task would be challenging for me; consequently, I kept things as simple as possible.  I was pretty impressed with some of my classmates, though.  Really, really nice work.

You know, again, I have to comment on the dedication of some of the chefs at Johnson & Wales.  My current chef stays late just about every day to help anyone that wants help, whether you're catching up, practicing, or getting ahead.  He truly gives all 20 of us individual attention every day.  I can only imagine how tired he must be when he goes home because we're so needy!  So many questions and so much repetition for so many hours.  A few of us stayed today to start pouring parts of our sugar showpiece, which is an underwater fish scene.  So, we hung out to make our seaweed and starfish.  He was right there with us.  I have moments in every class where it's tough to be a 37 year old adult amongst younger students.  The lecturing.  The preaching.  But, I truly appreciate his help and respect his expertise, you know. 

Anyway, here is my chocolate box.  Next up, you'll get to see my fish sculpture provided I don't break or smash it before taking a photo!

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February 25, 2007

Always Dessert

So, what do I want to do during my first weekend off since the holidays?  Go eat dessert, of course.  I feel my Dessert Review section of this website is sadly lacking because, honestly, I just don't have the time or energy to go out much when classes are going on.  In an effort to beef it up a bit, I asked my book/food club friends to join me in an excursion to Boston (well, Cambridge) to go to the well known dessert restaurant called Finale.  Let me also just say that they are the perfect crowd for helping me taste, eat, and critique because they love dessert as much as I do.  Thanks, ladies.

We drove on up to Cambridge last night and found Finale, which is in the heart of Harvard Square.  A very smart location for obvious reasons.  The instant student population looking for places to hang out, have a drink or coffee with something sweet.  It was bustling in there.  On weekends, they don't take reservations, so if you don't get there early enough, you may have to wait a while for a table.  Luckily, we only had about a ten minute wait.  This gave me the time to scope out the atmosphere and peer at the goodies in the pastry case, which were quite lovely in the warm glow of the restaurant.

I really love the idea of a dessert restaurant.   It's not that you can't go into any other restaurant and just order coffee and dessert.  I doubt you'd ever be turned away.  But, sometimes, restaurants have great entrees and so-so desserts.  Or, maybe you just feel like going out for something sweet after a movie or walk.  Yeah, I really like the idea that only dessert is served at Finale.  The Harvard grads that started the restaurant wanted to create a place where anyone could go for a stellar dessert.  Dessert for the masses, so to speak, instead of dessert for the elite who can afford the swanky five star restaurants.  Obviously, it worked because by the time we left, the place was packed and there was a waiting line.  And, they have two other locations around Boston.

The atmosphere was warm and inviting (except there is a design flaw in the main room.....the front door opens up into the dining area and everyone time someone opens the door, which is quite often, there is a blast of cold air; consequently, it was damn cold out last night so the dining area felt quite chilly).  Warm yellow walls and crimson seats/benches.  Candles.   It was informal, though.  A young crowd laughing and chatting. 

Our waiter was a well-coiffed young man with a tongue ring, braces, and an adorable lisp.  Angel, his name was.  He was lovely and his only flaw was not offering us more coffee sooner rather than later.  If I am going to drink coffee, I like the refills.   He brought us our menus, which were filled with dessert wines, toddies, mixed drinks, appetizers, light fare, and, of course, the list of plated desserts.  It was good to know that if you couldn't decide and wanted to taste everything,  there were two options.  One for chocolate lovers and another with a wide array of mini-sized samples of the desserts.  Moreover, the prices were very reasonable and affordable and each dessert was listed with a recommended wine selection. 

The Executive Pastry Chef, Nicole Coady (trained at Johnson and Wales) has really put together an excellent menu that combines classic desserts with interesting but not too off the wall flavors.  You will find things like creme brulee, molten cake, mousse, tarts, and cakes all complimented with flavorful sorbets, gelatos, or ice creams, as well as fresh seasonal fruit and/or small cookies.   

I ordered the Apricot Cinnamon Delight which (as pictured below) was a cinnamon cake with Tahitian vanilla chiboust (I am such a sucker for Tahitian vanilla anything), chestnut puree, French apricots, and apricot sorbet.  It was a lovely and light dessert.  My only complaint was that I think the cake was a bit too dry and crumbly.  The cream was perfect and the vanilla intense.  The apricot sorbet was absolutely wonderful.  The flavor combinations were simple, elegant, and worked very well together.  It's not a dessert that would overwhelm you or make you feel too full.  That was very appealing to me because I despise that feeling of having eaten too much.  I also found the plate design to be quite lovely.  A warm color palette.  The sorbet was sitting on a nest of filo dough and had a golden swatch of spun sugar on top.  It was nicely done.

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Also on our table was a classic Vanilla Creme Brulee.  Now, I've tasted a few brulees lately that really weren't up to par.  The flavors and textures were off.  The caramelized sugar on top wasn't torched enough so there wasn't that shell you could crack through with your spoon.  This brulee was not only visually stunning, but truly well done.  I would have liked more vanilla, but that is just because I like my vanilla strong, strong, strong.  The texture was smooth and creamy, perfectly set.  Ah, and the crack on top was just that, a shell to break through.  The small orange butter cookies and fresh fruit complimented the vanilla brulee  very well.  And, I also liked how the dessert was done in a bowl, rather than a ramekin.  Yes, very nice.

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Of course, we had to have something chocolate on the table.  So, two of my friends ordered the Magnanimous Molten Cake and the Manjari Mousse.  I will say that the molten cake was baked perfectly, meaning it wasn't dry and the chocolate inside did truly ooze slowly out on to the plate.  We found ourselves wishing that the chocolate was richer and with more of a bite to it.  The molten cake came with coffee gelato, which was absolutely delicious, chocolate sauce and chocolate covered almonds.  From what I've been learning about chocolate at school, we Americans are used to lower quality chocolate and milk chocolate.  Therefore, when creating chocolate desserts, you have to really think about your audience.   What kind of molten cake would appeal to the most people and sell?  My opinion here is that a mellower chocolate is used to appeal to a wider audience.  And, frankly, I think that is the right choice.  I like my chocolate dark and a bit bitter; however, most people don't share this feeling.  Nonetheless, the cake was good and the gelato was fantastic.

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The last dessert was called Manjari Mousse.  Manjari is a type of Valrhona chocolate (currently my chocolate of choice when I bake at home)  that is from Madagascar.  It is a dark chocolate with a tweak of bitterness and fruit flavor.  It made a divine chocolate mousse.  And, let me tell you, I am very picky about my chocolate and mousse, but this mousse was light, rich, and deliciously creamy.  It was layered with a chocolate buttermilk cake that was moist and decadent.  Also on the plate was a small napoleon (layered dessert) of Cabernet sorbet and strudel dough.  Amazing flavor and wonderful partner to the rich chocolate mousse.  This was by far my favorite dessert on the table.  I also really loved the plate design.  Spun sugar spikes.  Chocolate curls.  Sauces.  Even the choice of plate added to the stunning visual.

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To conclude, I certainly think the proprietors have achieved their goal of making more upscale desserts available to anyone/everyone.  I found the desserts to be consistent, meaning the tastes, flavors, textures, and plate designs were well done across the board with few errors or issues.  We had a good time tasting, critiquing, and chatting it up in this busy restaurant.  And, I would definitely return to try other things on the menu. 

Next up for my group will be the Chocolate Bar at the Langham Hotel in Boston.  That's right.  You heard it here.  A chocolate bar.  All you can eat.  All kinds of tastes, textures, foods, crazy spices, etc.   

January 06, 2007

Oak

Although I thought I couldn't fit one more bite of anything sweet into my mouth, there I was tasting away last night.  I found myself out with a few girlfriends at a restaurant in Providence appropriately named Oak because it borders the Oak Hill neighborhood. 

I neglected to bring my camera because I promised myself there'd be no room for dessert as all those cake tastings and Christmas cookies kind of caught up to me this week.  But, when the waitress said the pastry chef made homemade tiramisu that day.  Well, we couldn't resist it. 

And, that's exactly what it tasted like.  Homemade tiramisu.  The cake was light and fluffy.  The mascarpone was just right.  It was delicious, really.  My only criticism was that I would have liked to taste a bit more flavor in the cake.  I like my tiramisu a bit heavier on the coffee and Kahlua.  But, that's just a personal preference.

I also tasted a chocolate peanut butter torte that was dense and rich in that melt in your mouth kind of way. It was very good.  I'm not one for peanut butter in my tortes, but it was well done.  Not too heavy on the peanut butter. 

Both desserts were excellent compliments to our meals, as they weren't too too much.  Especially for me.  I had just eaten most of an Angus burger with bacon and sweet potato fries that were heavenly.   Having said that, I'm off to the gym!

October 10, 2006

A Review

I took a break from baking and school this weekend.  But, not from eating.  My friend and I tried the dessert place in Federal Hill (Providence's Little Italy) that everyone seems to mention or recommend.  Now, I forgot my camera so you're just going to have to imagine it.

Pastiche certainly deserves kudos for atmosphere.  It is a cute little (maybe 7 small tables?) dessert shop off of Depasquale Square.  Depasquale Square is like a slice of Europe in New England.  It's a square, of course, bordered with Italian restaurants that have seating outdoors when the weather is nice.  There is a fountain in the center and tons of bright flowers.  Quite lovely, really.  Pastiche is right around the corner on a back street.

The dessert shop has a classic pastry case containing treats like flourless chocolate cakes, carrot cake, tartes, and butter cream frosted ganache filled layer cakes.  It all looks absolutely wonderful.   So, my friend and I decided to try two desserts, a chocolate cheesecake brownie and a mini lemon sponge bundt cake of some sort.  I hate to say it, but they were not very good.  In fact, after all the tasting I have recently done in my classes, I felt that these were two of the blandest desserts I have ever put in my mouth.  It was really a disappointment.

The chocolate cheesecake brownie was chewy and without a distinct chocolate taste, if that makes sense.  I guess when I bite into a rich chocolate brownie, I want to taste a rich chocolate brownie.  This somehow tasted watered down.  And, I couldn't taste any vanilla.  I love the taste of vanilla in baked goods.  So, it was all just a nondescript blob of some kind of sugar. 

The lemon cake was picture perfect.  Swirls of lemon peel layered on top.  Moist appearance.  All cute and mini.  The lemon taste was a bit overpowering.  I love lemon.  But, this tasted like artificial lemon, not the real deal.  The cake was moist and all, but I guess I questioned the type of sugar that was used.  It just tasted a bit too syrupy. 

Anyway, I have to be honest.  Although there are other desserts to try and maybe we just chose the two weakest, I really don't have the desire to return.  It was missing something and seemed to taste more mass produced and supermarket-like, which I really didn't expect from such a cute little mom and pop place.  Again, maybe it was just what we tasted.  So, take what I say with a grain of salt if you're ever out and about and decide to stop in.

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